Home Assistant is a great way to rig up and manage your smart home and its many and varied devices. You can of course control the system from your smartphone or a computer, but you might like to have a dedicated interface too. In that regard, [Max Gramser]’s project may come in handy.

At heart, it’s a Home Assistant control screen that you can lay out yourself. It’s intended to run on ESP32 hardware. Most specifically, it’s built to run on the Cheap Yellow Display which combines an ILI9341 display with an XPT2046 resistive touchscreen, or a Guition ESP32-S3-4848S040, which has a ST7701S RGB display combined with a capacitive GT911 touchscreen. You merely need to load the firmware on to one of these units, and you’ll have a configurable and customizable touchscreen interface for your own Home Assistant setup.

The GUI used is clean, attractive, and flexible. You can have it display weather, time, and date widgets, populate the screen with buttons for activating lights and appliances, or even command a compatible robot vacuum. Whatever you might want to do with Home Assistant, you can almost certainly create a quick control for it on the display so it’s always on the wall, ready to go when you need it.

If you’ve always dreamed of your house having a futuristic control panel like we used to dream of in the 1980s, well… now it’s a reality. You just need to drop a few bucks on a touchscreen ESP32 rig and you’re ready to go. There’s plenty more you can do with a Cheap Yellow Display, too, so don’t hesitate to check out some of the previous builds we’ve featured with it!

[curisama] has put together a project simply entitled The Badge. It’s simple enough, being a little round screen that you wear. Only, it does a wide variety of rather interesting things.

The build is based on the Waveshare ESP32-S3-Touch-AMOLED-1.75C. It’s not a very fun part number, but it describes a device which combines a 466×466 round display with a milled aluminium case and an ESP32-S3 to drive everything.

[curisama] started building a custom firmware for the device, intending to use it as an air mouse. Soon enough it had a touchpad, too, a bunch of extra keys, as well as a clock and some games. It was given the ability to record audio too, up to 52 minutes in WAV format. From there, it also gained a rather fetching liquid simulation, with water sloshing around the round display with a little boat riding around on it. This took some optimization, with [curisama] pushing the animation from 3 FPS all the way up to 18 fps, making it much more fluid and satisfying to watch. There were other optimizations too, with [curisama] figuring out how enabling the CONFIG_PM_ENABLE flag and some other tweaks could push standby battery life from 11.9 to 19.6 hours. Not a bad gain at all.

If you need a handy yet unassuming round object to act as a human interface device and some other stuff besides, consider buying the Waveshare part and flashing it yourself. You can do so right from your browser. We’ve featured plenty of other interesting projects with Waveshare parts in recent years, too. The integrated-display-and-microcontroller market is booming for makers right now, and it’s one we’ll continue to follow with interest. If you’re doing innovative stuff in this space, be sure to notify the tipsline!

Clocks are almost the ideal devices to inspire creativity in hackers — they have a simple, well-defined task, but there’s an almost unlimited number of ways to carry it out. [ekaggrat singh kalsi]’s OVODYO is a particularly intriguing approach, tumbling a pair of icosahedral counters to display the current time.

Each 3D-printed icosahedron has numerals sunk through each of its twelve sides, and is raised above the base of the clock on a brass support shaft. An inner drive shaft runs through the center of the support shaft and drives a set of beveled gears. These spin the outer shells around two axes, periodically cycling through all twelve faces. The pattern in which an icosahedron rotates means that only set of numerals appears upright at a time, making it easier to distinguish the time.

A split path around the icosahedra both lets them rotate around the support shaft and shows off the internal gearing. On the control side, an ATmega8 drives a pair of stepper motors with drv8833 motor drivers, using a hall effect sensor to detect each indicator’s position. Since the minutes dial only gives the time in five-minute intervals, it also drives an LED strip to indicate the exact minute.

[ekaggrat] has a long history of creative clock designs, from this dynamic chain-link sculpture to a hair-tie clock or a mechanical seven-segment display.

Nifty little AMOLED screens are easy to get nowadays, and [Sophie D] demonstrates they are both thin and light enough to be worn with OpenChoker, a design for a choker necklace that was a hit at DEF CON.

The choker consists of an AMOLED touchscreen flanked by short RGB LED strips. Behind the display is the PCB which contains an RP2350 and micro SD card slot for external storage, and at the rear of the choker is an 18650 cell to power it all. The display plays an eye-catching animation that gets generated on the fly while the LEDs sparkle away.

[Sophie] shares a number of interesting takeaways from designing and building this device. One is that the bulk of the PCB design work was interfacing to the display, since no existing footprint or reference design could be found. So if you find yourself with a Hello Lighting HL020E21-02 2.14″ touchscreen display you’re hankering to use in your own project, do yourself a favor and check out [Sophie]’s board design instead of starting from scratch.

Battery life was more than enough for a device like this. A single 18650 cell powered the choker effortlessly for a 16-hour stretch and still the cell measured a robust 3.7 V. While a light-up choker used indoors isn’t a great candidate for wearable solar power, it’s encouraging that there’s no need for a tethered battery pack.

Another tip to consider relates to the screen’s touch sensitivity. In short, the capacitive touch screen responded perfectly when plugged into a development computer, but when mounted and isolated on the choker it responded so poorly as to be useless. It didn’t keep the rest of the choker from doing its job, but it might be worth keeping in mind as something to watch out for with a device like this.

There’s one final mystery [Sophie] ran into: with only one day to spare, glue used to affix some wires ended up melting away the wire insulation, revealing bare copper. We’re not sure what happened there, but if nothing else it’s a reminder that Murphy’s Law is always ready to strike when one is on a deadline.

Flip disc displays can be quite a task to drive, what with having some sort of actuator mechanism for each and every dot in the display. [Zimm] has built an altogether different kind of flip disc display, though, which gets around this with a complexity all its own.

The idea behind the build is simple. There is still an array of discs, in this case, 37 x 18 square discs that are black on one side and blue on the other. However, they’re not actuated by magnets or any kind of per-disc flipper. Instead, a CNC machine is charged with flipping them one at a time. There’s a tool head that scans through the array, and uses a color sensor and LIDAR to identify which pixels to flip and how far to push them. It’s not fast, by any means, but it’s a perfectly cromulent way to build a flip disc display, as it turns out.

If you so desire, you can draw or upload images to be displayed on PAR yourself, right from your browser. The project reminds us quite a lot of various plotters we’ve covered over the years, perhaps more than a traditional flip disc display, even.

The Cheap Yellow Display (CYD) is a board carrying a slightly older ESP32 variant, a display with a resistive touchscreen, an SD card, and not much else. It’s often used for straightforward microcontroller applications that need a user interface, but that’s not the limit of its possibilities. [Alun Morris] has a CYD on which you can brows an entire offline Wikipedia.

The trick is to take the offline Wikipedia builds from the Kiwix project, and process them further into a custom format suited for a browser firmware on the ESP32. A modern SD card can hold so much data that a full Wikipedia is well within its abilities even with images included.

We like this idea, because it takes the knowledge away from the center of the network to its edge. We expect to see it gaining a following among enthusiasts for offline living, because all that knowledge without a network can only be useful. If you recognize [Alun]’s work, it might be because of his ESP32 web browser.

[soiboi soft]’s vacuum-driven dot matrix display is part suction gripper, part touchscreen, and altogether impressive. Its display capabilities are entirely shadow-based, with each pixel being made of a cavity behind a flexible silicone sheet; when the display’s microfluidic logic circuitry activates a pixel, a vacuum pump pulls the sheet inwards, creating a visible hollow.

As in previous iterations, the display’s control circuitry is built around a pneumatic “transistor”, which allows an air channel to be opened or closed by applying vacuum to a control channel. As a first test, [soiboi soft] built a 16-pixel dot matrix display. Eight control channels – four row and four column channels – are multiplexed to individually control each pixel. The transistors act like one-way valves, so the pixels hold their state, even when pressed in by hand; simply add some circuitry to read a pixel’s state, and it would be a fully-functioning touchscreen. The supporting pneumatics also got an upgrade; the solenoid valves now cleanly mount to the back of the board, and the vacuum pump connects via a Luer lock adapter.

The 3D printing used to make certain parts and silicone molds caused issues when scaling up to a 64-pixel display, however. The parts were warping, destroying the seal necessary to keep pixels “on”. To straighten them out, [soiboi soft] pressed the printed part against a flat glass build plate in a vacuum bag and annealed it at 60 Celsius for several hours. This worked quite well, particularly when slightly raised rings were printed around the area to be sealed. Once all these bugs were worked out, the display was clear and decently responsive. [soiboi soft] was able to display letters, numerals, and animations, and even able to play Pong and Snake. It won’t be setting any refresh rate records, but it was nevertheless fully usable.

For another approach to playing Snake with microfluidics, check out this project. If printing molds and casting silicone seems too fiddly, there are always other ways to make microfluidic circuits.

LG Display’s FLiPP OLED technology promises 2.4x longer lifespan, higher brightness, and lower power use, with monitors and tablets set to become its first proving ground.

Perfection is an inherently subjective measure, in that one must choose the criteria against which to measure. A perfect circle is an absolutely rubbish octagon, for example. So when you see that [RetroBuiltGames] declares that he has built “the perfect multi-input display for retro gaming and vintage computing” — dubbed the “PixelVision AV1000 MKII”— keep in mind that he means the perfect display for his use case. That’s who he’s building it for, after all! The degree to which you find his product perfect is going to depend by-and-large how similar his use case is to yours. In that sense detailed explanations in the design/build video embedded below may be more valuable than the STEP files and PCBs in the GitHub link above– that way if your use case isn’t identical, you can perhaps learn something on the journey to build your own perfect monitor.

For [RetroBuiltGames] the aesthetic was obviously a big part of it– he’s inspired by the Amiga 1000’s monitor, and a tiny tilting Sony CRT TV.  He was obviously looking for many inputs, as given by the title, and he has an unusually high interest in pixel density for a retro enthusiast. Hence a 9.7″ 2K iPad display forms the basis of the project. The multi-input aspect is provided by a retrotink clone whose PCB lives in a bulge on the back of the unit that could easily house an SBC if you wanted an all-in-one emulation station– it already has a couple of decent speakers mounted in the sides.

Another big piece of the puzzle we don’t see enough of in such projects is Design For Manufacturing– the manufacturing method of choice being FDM 3D printing. The whole assembly was designed in chunks that can be easily printed  with the most visible surface flat on the bed – and if assembly proved difficult, than the parts were redesigned. His explanations aren’t a full DFM course by any means, but it’s good to see these things considered. If you need more detail on that front, we’ve featured plenty of such guides before.

We’re particularly taken by the conceit of creating his own packaging for the unit, and going to the effort of filming an unboxing video for a product he made himself. It’s just a bit of silly fun. We’ve seen boxes before, but generally speaking that sort of thing is saved for when a project becomes a product.

OLED displays solve many of the problems suffered by LC displays, including color fidelity, dynamic range and power usage. That said, especially in the early days OLED gained a reputation for dim screens, short lifespans and burn-in. Over time better organic dyes were developed, along with burn-in prevention methods that have made OLEDs much closer to LCDs in terms of longevity. In a recent comparison between OLED TVs by RTings it’s however clear that between 2017 and 2023 there haven’t been any major advances beyond bumps in brightness.

The relatively dim screens were a major problem, as they prevented OLEDs from displaying HDR content. This issue has been well and truly addressed, as confirmed by RTings’ testing, but after an over 10,000 hours stress test that simulates about 10 years of regular use at maximum SDR brightness, especially static elements like the CNN TV banner happily burned in even on the newest models with all burn-in prevention measures enabled.

Here the biggest take-away is probably that even if the expected panel lifespan at full brightness is still the same, this higher brightness budget means that you can gain some lifespan by cranking the brightness way down. It’s also essential to keep features like pixel refresh cycles enabled, as demonstrated by [Hardware Unboxed] and their abuse of a QD-OLED monitor where a worst-case 6,000 hour stress-test managed to create some impressive levels of burn-in from uneven subpixel wear.