Gurgaon is barely 25 years old as a city, yet its dining scene has already seen multiple cycles of rise and reinvention. In the middle of this constant churn stands China Club, a restaurant that has quietly held its ground for over two decades (23 years to be precise). In a market where standalone fine dining rarely survives, its longevity is not just rare, it is telling. Backed by IndiGo and cushioned by an owned space, it may have had structural advantages. But that alone does not explain why it continues to draw diners while food hubs around it have kept shifting from Sector 29 to Cyber Hub to Golf Course Road to its neighbouring hub called Kitchens. China Club has stayed put on MG Road and, over time, built a loyal following without chasing trends.

Walking in after several years, what strikes you first is consistency. The décor has barely changed, yet it does not feel tired. The seating remains comfortable, the space familiar. Service carries an old world charm, warm but not always sharp. There were moments when we had to remind the staff to serve dishes or refill drinks. It does not break the experience, but it does stand out in today’s more polished service environments.

I made the mistake most returning diners do. I over ordered. After seven or eight years, I had forgotten just how generous their portions are. We ordered like we would at any other restaurant and ended up packing a significant part of the mains.

The meal began on an average note. The hot and sour soup lacked the expected punch and needed a bit of chilli sauce to come alive. But things picked up quickly. The crispy fried butterfly prawns with ginger were outstanding, easily the highlight of the starters and worth returning for. The barbecue pork belly was well executed in flavour and texture, though it arrived at room temperature, which dulled its impact slightly.

In the dim sum section, the boiled vegetable dumplings worked well and were appreciated at the table. The spicy pork dumplings, however, were a miss. Dry filling and a wrapper that felt less than fresh made it the only dish we chose to leave unfinished.

The mains are where China Club reminds you why it has lasted this long. The black pepper lobster was excellent. The sliced chicken with black fungus, suggested by our server, was a smart recommendation. Even the fish hotpot, not listed on the menu, turned out to be a strong addition. Each dish carried depth, balance and a sense of familiarity that comes from a kitchen that knows exactly what it is doing. The portion sizes, especially the Hakka noodles and fried rice, add real value when dining as a group.

Desserts, however, remain an afterthought. They do the job, but there is nothing here that lingers in memory. This is one area where the restaurant could easily raise its game.

There is a certain threshold a restaurant crosses after two decades. It stops being just another option and begins to earn the tag of an institution. China Club is almost there, not because it has reinvented itself, but because it has stayed consistent while everything around it kept changing.

Address: China Club, Lobby Level, Tower C, Global Business Park, Mehrauli Gurgaon Road (MG Road), Sector 26, Gurgaon | Phone: 9999025800

Some meals stay with you longer than others. Last evening at Tan Yan was one of those.

I was there with a bunch of friends, the kind of table where menus are barely glanced at and food is ordered with full intent. At Tan Yan in HQ27, that works perfectly because the menu is built for indulgence. It celebrates Shaokao style Chinese barbecue, with skewers layered in cumin, chilli powder and Sichuan pepper, the kind of flavours that don’t hold back.

We began lightly, or at least that was the plan. A corn and edamame chaat set the tone, with charred corn adding a nice crunch to the softness. The chicken lettuce wrap followed, crisp, fresh and packed with flavour, eaten almost like a paan. And then came the tempura prawns, easily among the crispiest I’ve had. I stopped at three, not out of restraint, but out of curiosity for what was coming next.

And what followed was a steady flow of skewers. Pork belly, bacon glazed in a sticky sweet sauce, chicken mince stuffed shishito, lamb, chicken, prawns. Plates kept arriving, and conversation slowly took a backseat. There is always that moment at a table when everyone is quietly enjoying their food, occasionally looking up just to nod in approval. This was that kind of meal.

What I didn’t expect was how good the vegetarian selection would be. Somewhere between all the meat, the sweet potato and string beans made their way to the table and quickly became repeat orders. Both completely different in flavour, yet equally addictive. Even the grilled corn kernels and chilli cheese stuffed shishito held their own, making sure no one at the table felt left out.

Drinks flowed alongside. Draught beer for most, with a few mocktails making the rounds. I tried the iced pineapple and watermelon from a friend’s glass and made a mental note to order them properly next time. Service kept pace with the table, which is not easy when there are this many people and this many dishes involved.

Just when we thought we had covered most of the menu, the larger plates started arriving. Jumbo prawns, Sichuan eggplant, rice and noodles, all served sizzling and full of flavour. The kind of dishes that make you reconsider how full you actually are.

The mala chilli oil dumplings came in later and were instantly a hit. There was already talk at the table about that chilli oil and whether it could be taken home. That kind of addictive.

We were convinced we were done. Then came the hand pulled biang biang noodles, Hainese chicken rice and stir fried long beans. The noodles, with their hit of chilli oil, were easily one of my favourites of the night. The long beans came a close second. The Hainese chicken rice, while good, felt a bit subdued in comparison to everything else on the table.

By this point, people had started leaning back, some even declaring they were done for good. But dessert has a way of changing plans. The coconut caramel custard was outstanding, easily one of the best I’ve had in a while. And the cuddle bear, as charming as it sounds, was a crowd pleaser with its take on brownie and ice cream.

Evenings like this remind you why you go out to eat in the first place. Great food, a table full of people who enjoy it as much as you do, and a menu that keeps surprising you till the very end. Tan Yan gets it right on all counts, and this is one place I would go back to without thinking twice.

Address: Tan Yan
HQ27, Sector 27, Gurgaon | Phone Number: 9211443350

Kimikai is a fictional character that forms the foundation of the new restaurant, Kimikai – Umami House, at One Horizon Center. The space is designed as Kimikai’s residence, featuring an inviting alfresco area with lush greens, an indoor dining room, and two dedicated bars serving drinks and sushi.

The character itself is intriguing. A human body with the head of a fox, symbolising cunning and sharp instinct, inspired by traders of the spice route who dealt not just in spices but also in opium. This narrative is subtly woven into the interiors, with opium seeds and floral motifs visible across wallpapers and backdrops.

The storytelling is compelling and makes for an engaging first impression. It certainly has the potential to become a talking point. However, as always, the true test lies in the food and service.

I had expected the menu to reflect a broader interpretation of the spice route. Instead, it leans heavily towards Japanese cuisine. While one might be tempted to call it Pan Asian, the restaurant positions itself as an “Umami House.”

I was particularly looking forward to meeting Chef Partner Ruhani Singh, formerly of Zuma, but she was travelling at the time. My dining companion Sourish Bhattacharya seemed rather pleased, insisting that the best way to judge a restaurant is when the head chef is not present.

We began with a tomato carpaccio that was competitively executed. The ginger dressing was well balanced, complemented by the crunch of bubu arare, making for a promising start alongside a gomae salad.

Alongside the starters, I tried a cocktail called Black Pelt. Built along the lines of a highball, it combines whisky with green apple, pandan, and a hint of ginger. Light, refreshing, and easy to drink, it works particularly well as a daytime summer cocktail and pairs effortlessly with the meal without overpowering the flavours.

As a non vegetarian, I was particularly keen to explore the meat and seafood offerings. The meal truly picked up from there. The salmon aburi had both of us exchanging approving glances. Given that this sits in a premium dining destination like One Horizon Center, the presence of both chutoro and otoro sashimi on the menu was encouraging. While the chutoro was excellent, the otoro cuts unfortunately had excessive connective tissue, making them slightly chewy.

Some dishes stood out to the extent that we found ourselves instinctively reaching to clean every last bite. The black cod was unavailable, having been sold out the previous evening, but the miso sea bass from the robata more than made up for it. While black cod is usually my top preference, this dish was good enough to make me reconsider that hierarchy.

The chicken nanban burger deserves a special mention. Served with a fried patty, creamy cheese sauce, and presented on a sizzling tray where you assemble it yourself, it is both interactive and indulgent. It is the kind of dish that will appeal to children just as much as adults, though one needs to be cautious with the hot plate.

Among the other dishes we tried, the kimchi rice, New Zealand lamb chops, mushroom carbonara, and chicken katsu curry were all well executed.

The only misstep was the miso honey toast, where the bread itself fell short of expectations.

As the restaurant has only recently opened, some teething issues are understandable. While the food largely delivers, the sequencing of service needs attention. Our robata dish arrived before the sushi and sashimi, which disrupted the natural flow of the meal. To their credit, the team was receptive to the feedback, and one hopes this will be addressed soon.

Despite these gaps, there is enough here to warrant a revisit. The sea bass, lamb chops, and katsu curry alone make a strong case for returning.

Ratings
Food: 4.0/5 | Service: 2.5/5 | Ambience: 3.5/5 | Overall: 3.5/5

Address: Kimikai – Umami House, First Floor, One Horizon Center, Gurgaon
Phone: 8076205663
Meal for Two: INR 2500
Timings: 12 pm to 12 am

Last evening, we celebrated our daughter’s 18th birthday at Vicoli, a recently opened European restaurant. The name, which means alley in Italian, is reflected thoughtfully in the restaurant’s design. A long, alley style entrance leads into a spacious setting with high ceilings, a prominent bar, well appointed interiors and an attractive terrace dining area.

I came to know about Vicoli through a post by a friend on social media. A quick call secured our reservation, and when I mentioned the special occasion, the team requested a few photographs, which I shared in advance. The gesture was executed seamlessly. When my daughter saw the photographs placed on the table, it created a memorable and touching moment with priceless expressions on her face.

Keeping in mind our family’s preference, we largely ordered vegetarian dishes. The meal began with the cream cheese wonton, avocado lime toast and the Gouda fondue. The wonton was crisp and well balanced, complemented nicely by a mango habanero sauce. The avocado lime toast was satisfactory, though a crisper bread would have enhanced the dish. The Gouda fondue worked well as a sharing option, accompanied by broccoli, potato wedges, olives, mushrooms and crostini, making it engaging without being overly heavy.

The prawns pil pil stood out, served in a rich chilli butter sauce that was excellent. The sauce was so flavourful that it paired equally well with the pizza crusts. The Neapolitan style margherita pizza and the spicy vodka rigatoni were both well executed. The sauce in the rigatoni was particularly noteworthy, though the pasta could have benefited from being slightly more al dente.

The team graciously offered a complimentary cake to mark the occasion, which was appreciated.

Overall, Vicoli offers courteous service, a pleasant ambience, good music and competent food. With some improvement in their breads, the experience could be even better. It is certainly a restaurant we would be happy to revisit.

Address: Vicoli, 8th Floor, Global Foyer Mall, Sector 43, Golf course road, Gurgaon| Phone: 8448444267

When you see a room full of expats and only a handful of Indians at a restaurant, two things usually stand out. The food is authentic and the place is still a quiet secret. Raifu fits that description well. It is a Japanese restaurant that is very reasonably priced and the food is mostly enjoyable.

This was my second visit to Raifu at Dia Park Premier Hotel. The first one was around seven or eight years ago when I went with my friend. The trouble with hidden gems is that they stay so quiet that you forget about them while louder restaurants dominate your feed. When my another friend asked me to take her out for a Japanese meal, this place came back to mind.

We settled at a tatami style table with space for the feet to drop below and started with a chilled beer. The place can be a bit noisy (so those who feel Indians make too much noise, should check this out) but the meal turned into quite a spread. There are many vegetarian options too and my wife had enough choices to keep her happy. I will start with the non vegetarian dishes. Their pork preparations are excellent and the quality of the meat stands out. We ordered Buta Yawarakani (Rs 680), which is grilled pork belly, a pork tofu hot pot (Rs 690), a curry soba ramen bowl (Rs 600), butabara rankon (Rs 280) and asparagus wrapped in bacon (Rs 300). I enjoyed all except the small hot pot which was far too mild for my liking.

For fish, we began with salmon ponzu (Rs 550) that came with cucumber and seaweed. It was a small serving and disappeared quickly. The salmon was lean with a firm bite. My favourite though was the hamachi sashimi (Rs 850). The cut was perfect and as fresh as you can expect in Gurgaon. The tuna donburri bowl (Rs 780) is a generous portion served with miso soup. It is good but when I compare it with similar bowls at popular Indian restaurants, I feel the cubed fish elsewhere is easier to eat than the sashimi style cut used at Raifu. The one letdown in the fish section was the grilled seabass. At (Rs 1600), it was the most expensive dish we ordered and the serving was very small. The skin was nicely crisp but the fish itself did not have the flakiness I was hoping for.

Raifu also serves poultry. We tried the chicken skin and chicken thigh skewers (Rs 200 each). There are only two skewers per order and at this price I was not expecting a large serving. I will still order the chicken skin again on my next visit.

On the vegetarian side, my wife enjoyed the veg tempura sushi rolls (8 pcs for Rs 480), the grilled eggplant skewer (Rs 100) and a spicy noodle dish made on request. Since the place mainly attracts expats, we were pleasantly surprised to see the chef handle the vegetarian dishes with the same attention.

Home made ice cream (Rs 280) tasted just like any regular brand available outside and can be skipped.

If you want a proper Japanese meal without denting your pocket, Raifu is worth a visit. With the Zomato discount, it becomes even better value and should cost around Rs2000 per head.

Address: Raifu,
Dia Park Premier Hotel 353-357 near Huda City Center, Sector 29, Gurugram | Phone: 0124-4566701