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Today — 30 October 2026Cooking: Indian

RAGA: Gaggan Anand’s Homecoming to India at Janpath, Delhi

By: pawansoni
26 August 2026 at 03:54

₹11,111 for a meal. And that’s before taxes and beverages. Now that’s a number designed to raise an eyebrow.

But at RAGA, Chef Gaggan Anand’s first restaurant in India, you soon realise that this is not just another expensive tasting menu where you leave wondering where the next meal is coming from. This is a 22 course experience, and by the time you reach the end, you certainly won’t be looking for something else to eat.

RAGA Entry

Unstated luxury

The first impression is understated luxury. With an extra high ceiling and the kitchen spread across two floors, RAGA is as much a showcase of precision and craftsmanship as it is a restaurant.

There is a stunning open kitchen with some of the finest equipment, handcrafted Japanese crockery, Schott Zwiesel glasses and a kitchen and service team whose strength actually exceeds the restaurant’s seating capacity of just 32 guests.

A chef curated PDR is also expected to open soon, promising an even more personalised experience.

But the real theatre begins when the food arrives.

Gaggan’s cooking is not about simply making familiar Indian flavours taste better. It is about making you question what you are eating, how it was made and sometimes even what you thought you knew about it.

There is a cucumber preparation cut so impossibly thin that it almost disappears into a delicate gel that tastes remarkably like mint chutney. Another creation looks like something entirely unfamiliar, only to explode on the palate with the unmistakable flavour of Indian murmure.

There is nahari. Kashmiri tabak maaz. Modern chaat. Each appears in a form you may never have imagined.

And then comes the brain pepper fry. Except, given its flavour, texture and presentation, many diners may not guess that this apparently indulgent dish is actually vegetarian.

And yes, there is literally a course where you are expected to lick the plate.

That says something about the restaurant. RAGA isn’t afraid to have fun.

Yet it is the techniques, precision and presentation that make you understand why Gaggan Anand has consistently been regarded among the world’s finest chefs. Every course has a purpose. Every texture is considered. Every element has been thought through.

Even something as familiar as chicken wings gets a Gaggan treatment. A small rope is attached to the end so you can pick them up without getting your hands dirty.

Or take the very Indian matar. Even the peas have been painstakingly peeled, with the outer skin removed so that you get to the sweeter layer inside. It is an almost obsessive level of detailing, and this is precisely where you understand why RAGA needs such a large kitchen and service team for just 32 diners.

It is these little details that make the experience memorable.

RAGA is more than Gaggan

The name itself is a portmanteau.

RA comes from Rydo Anton, who is spearheading the restaurant in India, while GA stands for Gaggan Anand, the chef mentor whose vision shapes RAGA.

Joining them is Zorawar Kalra, one of the most influential names in Indian hospitality, whose concepts over the years have played an important role in shaping the contemporary Indian restaurant landscape.

Together, they have created something that feels less like an overseas chef opening a restaurant in India and more like a homecoming.

And perhaps that is what makes RAGA particularly exciting.

India’s restaurant scene has never had it this good. From Nisaba to Indian Accent and Comorin, and now RAGA, Indian cuisine is being interpreted with imagination, confidence and a global sensibility.

Will you get a reservation?

Absolutely not easily.

At least not in the initial months.

With just 32 seats and the curiosity surrounding Gaggan’s first Indian restaurant, reservations are bound to be fiercely sought after.

But the bigger question is whether RAGA will survive beyond the initial excitement.

My answer is yes. And not just survive. I believe it will flourish.

RAGA has the potential to become a destination restaurant for luxury travellers coming to India, particularly those who have experienced Gaggan’s restaurants overseas and faced months of waiting for a table.

And perhaps its biggest contribution will be inspiring more chefs and restaurateurs to think bigger about what Indian food can be.

At ₹11,111 plus taxes and beverages, RAGA certainly isn’t an everyday meal.

But then, this isn’t an everyday restaurant either.

Every course is a revelation. Every plate tells a story. And the experience is worth having at least once.

Address: RAGA, 21A, Janpath Road, Connaught Place, next to Le Meridien, Delhi

Reservations: ragabygaggan.com

Kimikai, One Horizon Gurgaon, Review: Curious and Engaging

By: pawansoni
15 April 2026 at 17:16

Kimikai is a fictional character that forms the foundation of the new restaurant, Kimikai – Umami House, at One Horizon Center. The space is designed as Kimikai’s residence, featuring an inviting alfresco area with lush greens, an indoor dining room, and two dedicated bars serving drinks and sushi.


The character itself is intriguing. A human body with the head of a fox, symbolising cunning and sharp instinct, inspired by traders of the spice route who dealt not just in spices but also in opium. This narrative is subtly woven into the interiors, with opium seeds and floral motifs visible across wallpapers and backdrops.


The storytelling is compelling and makes for an engaging first impression. It certainly has the potential to become a talking point. However, as always, the true test lies in the food and service.


I had expected the menu to reflect a broader interpretation of the spice route. Instead, it leans heavily towards Japanese cuisine. While one might be tempted to call it Pan Asian, the restaurant positions itself as an “Umami House.”


I was particularly looking forward to meeting Chef Partner Ruhani Singh, formerly of Zuma, but she was travelling at the time. My dining companion Sourish Bhattacharya seemed rather pleased, insisting that the best way to judge a restaurant is when the head chef is not present.

We began with a tomato carpaccio that was competitively executed. The ginger dressing was well balanced, complemented by the crunch of bubu arare, making for a promising start alongside a gomae salad.

Alongside the starters, I tried a cocktail called Black Pelt. Built along the lines of a highball, it combines whisky with green apple, pandan, and a hint of ginger. Light, refreshing, and easy to drink, it works particularly well as a daytime summer cocktail and pairs effortlessly with the meal without overpowering the flavours.

As a non vegetarian, I was particularly keen to explore the meat and seafood offerings. The meal truly picked up from there. The salmon aburi had both of us exchanging approving glances. Given that this sits in a premium dining destination like One Horizon Center, the presence of both chutoro and otoro sashimi on the menu was encouraging. While the chutoro was excellent, the otoro cuts unfortunately had excessive connective tissue, making them slightly chewy.

Some dishes stood out to the extent that we found ourselves instinctively reaching to clean every last bite. The black cod was unavailable, having been sold out the previous evening, but the miso sea bass from the robata more than made up for it. While black cod is usually my top preference, this dish was good enough to make me reconsider that hierarchy.

The chicken nanban burger deserves a special mention. Served with a fried patty, creamy cheese sauce, and presented on a sizzling tray where you assemble it yourself, it is both interactive and indulgent. It is the kind of dish that will appeal to children just as much as adults, though one needs to be cautious with the hot plate.

Among the other dishes we tried, the kimchi rice, New Zealand lamb chops, mushroom carbonara, and chicken katsu curry were all well executed.

The only misstep was the miso honey toast, where the bread itself fell short of expectations.


As the restaurant has only recently opened, some teething issues are understandable. While the food largely delivers, the sequencing of service needs attention. Our robata dish arrived before the sushi and sashimi, which disrupted the natural flow of the meal. To their credit, the team was receptive to the feedback, and one hopes this will be addressed soon.


Despite these gaps, there is enough here to warrant a revisit. The sea bass, lamb chops, and katsu curry alone make a strong case for returning.


Ratings
Food: 4.0/5 | Service: 2.5/5 | Ambience: 3.5/5 | Overall: 3.5/5


Address: Kimikai – Umami House, First Floor, One Horizon Center, Gurgaon
Phone: 8076205663
Meal for Two: INR 2500
Timings: 12 pm to 12 am

Nadoo GK3: A Fresh Take on South Indian Cuisine in Delhi

By: pawansoni
3 April 2026 at 08:11

A home chef can often outshine a professional when it comes to flavour and soul. But scaling that same warmth and precision for a full dining room is a different challenge altogether. At Nadoo, that gap is thoughtfully bridged.


The concept brings together researcher and chef Shri Bala with restaurateur Sahil Sambhi, who also has Tamil roots. The idea is simple yet powerful. Present regional South Indian cuisine in a way that invites North Indian diners to step beyond the familiar comfort of idli, dosa and sambhar.


The space makes a strong first impression. Rammed earth textures across the walls and ceiling not only add character but also help regulate temperature naturally. The seating is thematically divided into sun, land and sea, a subtle nod to geography and mood. The open kitchen, with no glass barrier, adds a sense of honesty and reminds you of a South Indian home where cooking is always in full view.


We began with the much recommended egg puff, a Kerala style street classic with a boiled egg tucked into flaky pastry, served with a Mandaveli style house made ketchup. It absolutely lived up to the hype. The jackfruit version worked just as well for vegetarians.
The “Dunkin Doughnut”, essentially a vada soaked in sambhar, was soft and comforting, though I personally missed a slight crispness in the texture.


Seafood is clearly a highlight here. While the crab was unavailable, the Marina Beach style surmai fry stood out with its spiced crust and balanced tamarind notes. The curry leaf lobster was equally impressive, rich, aromatic and deeply satisfying. The bar complements the food well. While I stuck to beer, the gin based Southern Tide, with pandan and burnt coconut, was a clear favourite at the table.


The mains continued the strong momentum. The pomfret rasa, infused with a gentle smokiness from banana leaf, was excellent. The tangy brinjal curry paired with Chef Bala’s version of a thin dibba roti was outstanding and easily one of my top picks. The Russell Market raan was beautifully cooked and tender, though the coin paratha could have been a bit softer.


We skipped the biryani despite its growing popularity, but made room for desserts. The forbidden rice pudding, a black rice kheer, came with an interesting backstory that Chef Bala is happy to share. The pongal, flavoured with edible camphor and served in a flaky pouch with jaggery, was both nostalgic and indulgent.


The menu at Nadoo is confident and rooted. It carries the soul of home cooking while presenting itself with the finesse of a polished restaurant. Chef Harangad is also part of Sahil Sambhi’s team and has recently joined him to open a new North Indian restaurant brand. Until that launches, he is working closely with Shri Bala, bringing in his experience of running a professional kitchen while immersing himself in South Indian flavours.


Nadoo is not just worth a visit. It is the kind of place that invites you back, each time to explore a little more of the South that you thought you already knew.

Address: Nadoo, E-5, Masjid Moth LSC, GK3, New Delhi | Phone: 9217679217 / 9217499217

Nisaba Delhi Review: Chef Manish Mehrotra’s Most Awaited New Restaurant

By: pawansoni
22 January 2026 at 08:40

The FOMO was real. For weeks, everyone in the food circuit had been talking about Nisaba, the much awaited new restaurant by Chef Manish Mehrotra. Known globally for path breaking restaurants like Indian Accent and Comorin, both of which put Indian cuisine on the world map, Chef Mehrotra parted ways with his earlier ventures about eighteen months ago. Nisaba was always going to be watched closely and it has easily become one of the most talked about launches in recent times.


Nisaba takes its name from the ancient Sumerian goddess of grains. Located in the buzzing new hub near Sunder Nursery, the 120 plus seater restaurant was already packed for a weekday lunch when I visited, soon after it opened to the public. Most food writers and Delhi’s social elite had already experienced it during a week long pre launch, and the buzz was evident right from the entrance.


After some polite persuasion with the parking attendant, we made our way inside and settled into Nisaba’s minimal yet sophisticated space. The music was understated, letting the lively chatter around the room take over. We began with sparkling wine and browsed through the menu, which is largely à la carte, closer in spirit to Comorin than the tasting menus of Indian Accent.
In a brief conversation, Chef Mehrotra shared a thought that resonated. He believes diners today find it difficult to sit through three hour meals focused only on food. With no theatrical performances or gimmicks, the menu reflects how people prefer to eat now. Simple, engaging, and flexible.


What stood out immediately was Chef Mehrotra’s presence on the floor. He visited almost every table, either carrying dishes himself or stopping to take feedback. Despite being an equal partner in the restaurant, his humility remains unchanged. It was no surprise to see diners frequently rising from their seats to request a photograph.
“The food here is not modern Indian or progressive,” he said. “It is food for today’s generation.” With strong influences from Indian street food, we began with Dal Moradabadi served with mini samosas at Rs 550. Frankly, this dish alone could have sustained our entire meal. Perfectly balanced, deeply comforting, and paired with crisp samosas that used mashed potato instead of chopped filling, it was exceptional. Some combinations simply work, and this was one of them.


The Lucknow white matar chaat, also priced at Rs 550, followed. It reminded me of Fateh ki Kachori, with a thinner, crisper matthi topped generously with tikki matar chaat. Familiar yet elevated, it tasted even better than expected.

Among vegetarian starters, we tried the mushroom chops with mushroom makhani sauce and mushroom achaar at Rs 900, and a new age paneer pakoda priced at Rs 975. The mushroom chops were rich and satisfying. The paneer pakoda, while well executed, did not quite grow on us.

From the non vegetarian section, the tiger prawns cooked in dry shrimp butter and served with Goan poee bread at Rs 1475 delivered bold flavours. The use of dry shrimp makes this dish intense, so it may not suit those who prefer milder seafood. We also ordered butter chicken as a starter at Rs 1050. Thick, smoked makhani sauce coated tender boneless chicken, paired with crisp onion rings that added texture and balance.


A personal favourite followed. Chef Mehrotra’s classic Belgian pork ribs at Rs 1300, paired with sweet mango chunda, remain as memorable as ever. It is a dish I never miss at Indian Accent, and it continues to impress.


By the time mains arrived, we were already comfortably full. Still, the Zaveri Bazaar tadka dal at Rs 875, fragrant with hing and served with ajwaini roti, was hard to resist. The kadhai potato with jakhiya seeds and crisp fried potato bites at Rs 650 delivered rustic flavours with finesse.

The pit roasted pineapple curry at Rs 925, served with set dosa and rice, was another standout. Each vegetarian dish was a masterclass in balance and creativity. When vegetarian food appeals equally to committed non vegetarians, it speaks volumes about the chef’s craft.


Among the non vegetarian mains, the Motihari mutton with hing kachori at Rs 1525 impressed with its depth of flavour and beautifully cooked meat. If I had to choose just one main course to return for, this would be it. The baked Amritsari river sole at Rs 1175 surprised us with a topping of fine pudina boondi that added both crunch and freshness. It was served with mishrikand, a sweet textured ingredient that was new to me and added a pleasant contrast.


Dessert was non negotiable. The house made potato chips with chashni miso vanilla ice cream at Rs 650 was playful and addictive. The baked rasmalai with nolen gur makhana at Rs 700 was comforting without being heavy. My clear favourite was the dhoda tart with pecan ice cream at Rs 750. None of the desserts tried too hard, yet each one delivered.


You may come to Nisaba for the food and find it easy to navigate a thoughtfully curated forty dish menu. But you will return for the warmth of the service, the chef’s quiet humility, and the calm, inviting ambience. Nisaba has arrived, and Delhi has a new winner on its hands.


Nisaba, Address: Humayun World Heritage Site Museum, Nizamuddin, National Zoological Park, Sundar Nagar, New Delhi | Phone: 9810906091

Vicoli Gurgaon: European Flavours, Warm Service and a Memorable Celebration

By: pawansoni
17 December 2025 at 12:56

Last evening, we celebrated our daughter’s 18th birthday at Vicoli, a recently opened European restaurant. The name, which means alley in Italian, is reflected thoughtfully in the restaurant’s design. A long, alley style entrance leads into a spacious setting with high ceilings, a prominent bar, well appointed interiors and an attractive terrace dining area.

I came to know about Vicoli through a post by a friend on social media. A quick call secured our reservation, and when I mentioned the special occasion, the team requested a few photographs, which I shared in advance. The gesture was executed seamlessly. When my daughter saw the photographs placed on the table, it created a memorable and touching moment with priceless expressions on her face.

Keeping in mind our family’s preference, we largely ordered vegetarian dishes. The meal began with the cream cheese wonton, avocado lime toast and the Gouda fondue. The wonton was crisp and well balanced, complemented nicely by a mango habanero sauce. The avocado lime toast was satisfactory, though a crisper bread would have enhanced the dish. The Gouda fondue worked well as a sharing option, accompanied by broccoli, potato wedges, olives, mushrooms and crostini, making it engaging without being overly heavy.

The prawns pil pil stood out, served in a rich chilli butter sauce that was excellent. The sauce was so flavourful that it paired equally well with the pizza crusts. The Neapolitan style margherita pizza and the spicy vodka rigatoni were both well executed. The sauce in the rigatoni was particularly noteworthy, though the pasta could have benefited from being slightly more al dente.

The team graciously offered a complimentary cake to mark the occasion, which was appreciated.

Overall, Vicoli offers courteous service, a pleasant ambience, good music and competent food. With some improvement in their breads, the experience could be even better. It is certainly a restaurant we would be happy to revisit.

Address: Vicoli, 8th Floor, Global Foyer Mall, Sector 43, Golf course road, Gurgaon| Phone: 8448444267

Pendulo Delhi: Chef Led Mexican Indian Experience

By: pawansoni
20 November 2025 at 10:14

We were driving back from the market in Delhi when hunger struck. I had heard that Pendulo near Qutub Minar serves Mexican and Indian flavours curated by Chef Megha Kohli, formerly of Lavash by Saby which once stood at the same location, and Chef Noah Barnes of Tabula and Miss Margarita. I walked in knowing only the cuisine. The team informed us that, for now, they serve a set course menu priced at seven thousand for non vegetarian and six thousand for vegetarian. The ala carte menu will take a little more time. Since we arrived early, getting a table was easy though both the main chefs were travelling out of country.

The interiors are quite striking. Lamps shaped like Mexican agave, playful signages on the walls, jars of spices placed on the table, dim lights, a live sitar player and a well stocked bar give the space a romantic and slightly dramatic mood. For a place that focuses strongly on food, a touch more lighting would help diners appreciate the plates better.

The service team is well trained and explained the concept of Pendulo with confidence. Each dish carries both Indian and Mexican influences, and a small pendulum sketch on the menu shows which way the dish leans.

We began with a palate cleansing drink made with corn, Oaxacan cheese and jaggery. It was surprisingly refreshing. The second course felt like a nachos and papad combination served with a range of dips. The dips moved from guacamole to spicy adobo, smoked salsa and a foamy pico de gallo. It paired well with the only cocktail I ordered, a mezcal based Fuego Kokum.

The next dish was a Mexican street food classic called elotes built around grilled corn. The seasoning is what truly lifted it. Tajin, bhaang seed salt, garlic salt and a squeeze of lemon. Three pieces of corn in a twelve course menu may sound a lot, but they were delicious enough to overlook that thought.

This is when I saw a familiar tall figure walking in. Sahil Baweja, the owner of Pendulo, had stepped in to check if everything was alright. I had met him once almost a decade ago during a very formal introduction. This time I requested him to join us for a bit. His educational background is remarkable. I cannot think of many restaurateurs in India who have graduated from INSEAD in France, one of the finest business schools in the world, and then chosen to build a restaurant here. A bold choice in every way. In conversation, I learnt about his other ventures including Chica Loca and Potions where his partner is Sunny Leone.

The food continued to impress. The tuna served in a tomato shorba infused with tigers milk was flavourful, though I would have preferred a slightly thicker cut of tuna. The crab tostada was a delight. They prepare it in reverse and every element deserves a repeat.

The menu may seem expensive at first glance, but the moment the apple wood smoked lobster tail arrived, the pricing felt justified. Then came Maharashtrian thecha and chicken stuffed inside a bharwan chilli. The gentle sweetness of jaggery to soften the heat was a clever touch.

After a lemon based palate cleanser, we were served tacos. One with mutton birria and the other with Coorg style pandi pulled pork. Hunger and curiosity both worked in my favour and I polished them off with full attention.

If you still have space, the final savoury course is a comforting plate of mole sauce served with a small portion of rice and Awadhi lamb. The meal ends on a playful note with jalebi churros.

Pendulo is ideal for a special night when you want to sit back, relax and let the kitchen take over the decisions. If you enjoy slow dining and thoughtful flavours, you will appreciate this. I only hope they introduce a wine paired menu soon.

Address: Pendulo, 1st Floor, Ambawatta 1, Mehrauli, Near Qutub Minar, New Delhi | Phone: 8800346565

Matram, Dwarka: A New Regional Indian Restaurant with Pan-India Flavours

By: pawansoni
16 July 2025 at 03:08

These days, there’s no dearth of restaurants, and most of them not only look and feel the same, but their menus are so interchangeable that you could swap one with another and few would notice. Matram, a new entrant in regional Indian cuisine, stands apart. From its traditional aesthetic to a menu that genuinely travels from Kashmir to Kanyakumari it is refreshingly different.

Located on an independent plot next to a mall, the impressive frontage with stone elephants and water fountains makes you pause and take notice. Step inside, and the interiors charm you instantly. Intricate detailing on the walls and ceilings, and a bright blue ceiling mimicking a clear sky on one side, give the space an uplifting energy and a pleasant, open feel.

It was their first lunch service (they had only started with dinner the night before) so it’s understandable that the staff needs time to become more fluent with the menu and to stock the refrigerators with adequate soft drinks. But those are minor glitches. What matters is that Matram makes a sincere and enthusiastic attempt to woo the discerning diner.

We began with crisp nadru (lotus root) fritters served with a trio of dips: bhaang chutney, pineapple chutney, and green apple chutney. A welcome change from the usual mint chutney. But what had my full attention was the tender coconut chilly fry, a standout dish made with the flesh of tender coconut cooked in its own water, finished in a spicy sauce. It’s healthy, addictive, and unlike anything I’ve had elsewhere. Chef Suresh Singh Fartyal, originally from the northern hills, proudly shared that he has launched restaurants across almost every Indian state, and this particular dish is his own invention. I admire the spirit of innovation.

Then came a medley of dishes, including the dohra kebab, a seekh that layers chicken at the base and mutton on top. It’s not commonly found, though I felt it could benefit from a bit more seasoning. The grilled tiger prawns, flambéed with rum on the table stole the show. Perfectly marinated, beautifully cooked, and packed with flavour.

I won’t go into detail about the other starters we tried like mutton pepper fry, Tangra chicken, ghee roast chicken, gunpowder podi idli etc which were all decent enough to hold their own in most restaurants, but somewhat overshadowed by Matram’s signature creations.

From the mains, my favourites were the Bengali kosha mangsho and the Kashmiri morels pulao. Both were so flavourful that while others asked for raita, I preferred to savour them as they were.

Dessert was a mixed bag. The black rice kheer from the Northeast was best ignored (I’ve had far better), but the gulab jamun cheesecake was delicious. The team also went out of their way to serve us green tea on request, which was a thoughtful touch.

Matram is a much-needed addition to the NCR dining scene. I only hope that its Dwarka location doesn’t become a limitation to the success it richly deserves.

Matram, Reliance Mall, Plot No 1, adjacent to Mayfair Restro Bar, Sector 13, Dwarka, New Delhi, Delhi, 110078

Before yesterdayCooking: Indian

RAGA: Gaggan Anand’s Homecoming to India at Janpath, Delhi

By: pawansoni
25 August 2026 at 22:24

₹11,111 for a meal. And that’s before taxes and beverages. Now that’s a number designed to raise an eyebrow.

But at RAGA, Chef Gaggan Anand’s first restaurant in India, you soon realise that this is not just another expensive tasting menu where you leave wondering where the next meal is coming from. This is a 22 course experience, and by the time you reach the end, you certainly won’t be looking for something else to eat.

RAGA Entry

Unstated luxury

The first impression is understated luxury. With an extra high ceiling and the kitchen spread across two floors, RAGA is as much a showcase of precision and craftsmanship as it is a restaurant.

There is a stunning open kitchen with some of the finest equipment, handcrafted Japanese crockery, Schott Zwiesel glasses and a kitchen and service team whose strength actually exceeds the restaurant’s seating capacity of just 32 guests.

A chef curated PDR is also expected to open soon, promising an even more personalised experience.

But the real theatre begins when the food arrives.

Gaggan’s cooking is not about simply making familiar Indian flavours taste better. It is about making you question what you are eating, how it was made and sometimes even what you thought you knew about it.

There is a cucumber preparation cut so impossibly thin that it almost disappears into a delicate gel that tastes remarkably like mint chutney. Another creation looks like something entirely unfamiliar, only to explode on the palate with the unmistakable flavour of Indian murmure.

There is nahari. Kashmiri tabak maaz. Modern chaat. Each appears in a form you may never have imagined.

And then comes the brain pepper fry. Except, given its flavour, texture and presentation, many diners may not guess that this apparently indulgent dish is actually vegetarian.

And yes, there is literally a course where you are expected to lick the plate.

That says something about the restaurant. RAGA isn’t afraid to have fun.

Yet it is the techniques, precision and presentation that make you understand why Gaggan Anand has consistently been regarded among the world’s finest chefs. Every course has a purpose. Every texture is considered. Every element has been thought through.

Even something as familiar as chicken wings gets a Gaggan treatment. A small rope is attached to the end so you can pick them up without getting your hands dirty.

Or take the very Indian matar. Even the peas have been painstakingly peeled, with the outer skin removed so that you get to the sweeter layer inside. It is an almost obsessive level of detailing, and this is precisely where you understand why RAGA needs such a large kitchen and service team for just 32 diners.

It is these little details that make the experience memorable.

RAGA is more than Gaggan

The name itself is a portmanteau.

RA comes from Rydo Anton, who is spearheading the restaurant in India, while GA stands for Gaggan Anand, the chef mentor whose vision shapes RAGA.

Joining them is Zorawar Kalra, one of the most influential names in Indian hospitality, whose concepts over the years have played an important role in shaping the contemporary Indian restaurant landscape.

Together, they have created something that feels less like an overseas chef opening a restaurant in India and more like a homecoming.

And perhaps that is what makes RAGA particularly exciting.

India’s restaurant scene has never had it this good. From Nisaba to Indian Accent and Comorin, and now RAGA, Indian cuisine is being interpreted with imagination, confidence and a global sensibility.

Will you get a reservation?

Absolutely not easily.

At least not in the initial months.

With just 32 seats and the curiosity surrounding Gaggan’s first Indian restaurant, reservations are bound to be fiercely sought after.

But the bigger question is whether RAGA will survive beyond the initial excitement.

My answer is yes. And not just survive. I believe it will flourish.

RAGA has the potential to become a destination restaurant for luxury travellers coming to India, particularly those who have experienced Gaggan’s restaurants overseas and faced months of waiting for a table.

And perhaps its biggest contribution will be inspiring more chefs and restaurateurs to think bigger about what Indian food can be.

At ₹11,111 plus taxes and beverages, RAGA certainly isn’t an everyday meal.

But then, this isn’t an everyday restaurant either.

Every course is a revelation. Every plate tells a story. And the experience is worth having at least once.

Address: RAGA, 21A, Janpath Road, Connaught Place, next to Le Meridien, Delhi

Reservations: ragabygaggan.com

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