❌

Reading view

There are new articles available, click to refresh the page.

Making an Air-Powered Circular Saw with LEGO

The all-LEGO version barely cuts paper. (Credit: Jamie's Brick Jams, YouTube)
The all-LEGO version barely cuts paper. (Credit: Jamie’s Brick Jams, YouTube)

Although building a table saw out of LEGO is probably not the first thing that comes to mind when you look at those colorful bits of plastic, [Jamie] has been on a bit of a search for more applications of his LEGO-based air-powered motors. Naturally this led to the idea of doing something useful with it, like making a table saw you can actually use for real wood.

Starting off with a basic prototype using only regular LEGO pieces to get the mechanism figured out, [Jamie] then builds this up into said air-powered table saw featuring an actual metal blade. Suffice it to say that this isn’t something that you want your children to do with their LEGO while unsupervised.

The star of the show is of course the air-powered turbine that spins the blade. This is something that [Jamie] has been working on for a while, going through a number of prototypes to figure out a 3D printed geometry for the turbine blade that helps to convert as much of the high-pressure air into rotation.

Along the way it was also discovered that 3D printing saw blades is pretty hard, probably due to the lack of a sharp edge. This is definitely an area where it’s hard to beat a real table saw blade, with the added caveat that anything that’s good at cutting up boards of wood and sausages will just as happy slice through careless primate fingers.

In terms of safety features, the air supply is cut automatically with a sort of dead-man switch that requires you to keep one hand on it while using the final table saw design. There also an auto-feeding system added that tries to guide the board into the saw, but this turned out to be finicky. Suffice it to say that an air compressor and a handful of non-LEGO-approved components created a pretty convincing table saw.

Fixing a 1990s LEGO Electric Train Speed Regulator

Before LEGO train sets moved to battery-powered locomotives with plastic rails, all of them worked pretty much like any other train set of the era. This meant metal rails that the locomotive’s wheels would use to pick up power from and a central controller that would inject said power and also regulate the train’s speed and direction. The LEGO 2868b Electric Train Speed Regulator is one such example, and [Nonsense Wars] recently had one under the knife to repair it.

The single PCB inside is quite straightforward, with the 9-12 VAC supply input from an external power adapter, and a variable voltage regulator that sees its target voltage switched by a bank of resistors.

It are these resistors that the big yellow control switches between when you operate it, changing the output voltage and also output polarity you cross the midway point. Effectively this means that there is just one non-passive component on the PCB, in the form of the TO-220 package strapped to the big heatsink.

In this particular unit it was found to be a Fairchild KA317, which is for all intents and purposes here the same as an LM317T. One quick swap later and this controller was back in business like it was 1995.

Compared to the engineering crammed into a modern β€œsmart brick”, things really have come quite a ways in the world of LEGO.

Disassembling a Mini Air Blower to Make RC Airplanes

As a certified RC airplane fan, the [RCMakerLab] on YouTube found themselves looking at one of those nifty mini air blowers that provide an alternative to a compressor and canned air for dusting and other high-volume, high-pressure air-related tasks.

Inside these quite affordable units is a ducted fan (EDF) that can produce fairly high levels of airflow to get to every last dust bunny hiding on a PCB or inside a keyboard, raising the question of whether you could use these to fly a model airplane with.

As can be seen in the torn down unit, there isn’t a lot to these air blowers, with the ESC bolted onto the EDF and only the speed regulator and on/off switch being external controls. This would make it very easy to integrate into an airplane, but leaves the question of whether it can generate enough thrust to make it worth the effort.

Using a custom rig, it was shown to generate up to 110 grams of thrust with a current of 16.5 A, which would at least go a long way to carrying its own battery pack. In order to create an airplane with it, probably two of these motors are needed. There’s also the potential of reducing weight by changing the ESC and such, making reusing these little EDFs from any discarded or broken mini air blowers at least worth a shot.

At the very least, it seems like it has a better shot of working than a plane powered by an electric leaf blower.

Tube Launch Boosts Rocket’s Performance

A small rocket is shown launching into the sky, with a trail of smoke leading into the mount of a black pipe. Four large plastic pieces are falling away from below the rocket.

If you want improve a model rocket’s performance, all the common options come with serious trade-offs: you could increase the motor’s size, which raises safety issues, or you could cut down on weight, which limits the possible payload. [Con Hathy] was therefore intrigued by the design of the Arcas sounding rockets, which with the aid of a gas-fed launch tube could reach an altitude of 100 km. Even in models without a gas generator, a launch tube apparently boosted performance, an effect which [Con] was able to replicate in a much smaller model rocket.

In theory, as the rocket engine fires, it should pressurize the tube behind the rocket, providing an extra boost out of the tube. To test this, [Con] 3D printed a test rocket, launched it both from a standard rail and from a tube, and compared the results. During tube launches, a printed sabot fit around the rocket and formed a seal with the launch tube. The results were surprising: the tube-launched rocket actually performed substantially worse than a rail launch. After building a simulation, [Con] found that, as the rocket moves down the tube, the volume of tube it needs to back-fill with gas increases faster than the engine puts out exhaust; it was pulling a slight vacuum behind it, slowing itself down.

To solve this, [Con] decreased the diameter of the launch tube. To let the rocket fit into the tube, he also modified it to use pop-out stabilizer fins which wrap around the rocket while in the tube. The sabot was also shrunk, and had foam added to improve the seal between it and the rocket. For this second test, [Con] also connected a pressure sensor to the base of the launch tube. The results on the second launch were much better: according to an altimeter, it managed to fly 72% higher. Based on the pressure sensor’s data, a longer tube could have squeezed out still more performance, but this still demonstrated the principle quite well.

We’ve seen a tube-launched rocket before, though not with such a performance focus.

❌