Kimikai is a fictional character that forms the foundation of the new restaurant, Kimikai – Umami House, at One Horizon Center. The space is designed as Kimikai’s residence, featuring an inviting alfresco area with lush greens, an indoor dining room, and two dedicated bars serving drinks and sushi.

The character itself is intriguing. A human body with the head of a fox, symbolising cunning and sharp instinct, inspired by traders of the spice route who dealt not just in spices but also in opium. This narrative is subtly woven into the interiors, with opium seeds and floral motifs visible across wallpapers and backdrops.

The storytelling is compelling and makes for an engaging first impression. It certainly has the potential to become a talking point. However, as always, the true test lies in the food and service.

I had expected the menu to reflect a broader interpretation of the spice route. Instead, it leans heavily towards Japanese cuisine. While one might be tempted to call it Pan Asian, the restaurant positions itself as an “Umami House.”

I was particularly looking forward to meeting Chef Partner Ruhani Singh, formerly of Zuma, but she was travelling at the time. My dining companion Sourish Bhattacharya seemed rather pleased, insisting that the best way to judge a restaurant is when the head chef is not present.

We began with a tomato carpaccio that was competitively executed. The ginger dressing was well balanced, complemented by the crunch of bubu arare, making for a promising start alongside a gomae salad.

Alongside the starters, I tried a cocktail called Black Pelt. Built along the lines of a highball, it combines whisky with green apple, pandan, and a hint of ginger. Light, refreshing, and easy to drink, it works particularly well as a daytime summer cocktail and pairs effortlessly with the meal without overpowering the flavours.

As a non vegetarian, I was particularly keen to explore the meat and seafood offerings. The meal truly picked up from there. The salmon aburi had both of us exchanging approving glances. Given that this sits in a premium dining destination like One Horizon Center, the presence of both chutoro and otoro sashimi on the menu was encouraging. While the chutoro was excellent, the otoro cuts unfortunately had excessive connective tissue, making them slightly chewy.

Some dishes stood out to the extent that we found ourselves instinctively reaching to clean every last bite. The black cod was unavailable, having been sold out the previous evening, but the miso sea bass from the robata more than made up for it. While black cod is usually my top preference, this dish was good enough to make me reconsider that hierarchy.

The chicken nanban burger deserves a special mention. Served with a fried patty, creamy cheese sauce, and presented on a sizzling tray where you assemble it yourself, it is both interactive and indulgent. It is the kind of dish that will appeal to children just as much as adults, though one needs to be cautious with the hot plate.

Among the other dishes we tried, the kimchi rice, New Zealand lamb chops, mushroom carbonara, and chicken katsu curry were all well executed.

The only misstep was the miso honey toast, where the bread itself fell short of expectations.

As the restaurant has only recently opened, some teething issues are understandable. While the food largely delivers, the sequencing of service needs attention. Our robata dish arrived before the sushi and sashimi, which disrupted the natural flow of the meal. To their credit, the team was receptive to the feedback, and one hopes this will be addressed soon.

Despite these gaps, there is enough here to warrant a revisit. The sea bass, lamb chops, and katsu curry alone make a strong case for returning.

Ratings
Food: 4.0/5 | Service: 2.5/5 | Ambience: 3.5/5 | Overall: 3.5/5

Address: Kimikai – Umami House, First Floor, One Horizon Center, Gurgaon
Phone: 8076205663
Meal for Two: INR 2500
Timings: 12 pm to 12 am

There was a time when Sahara Star, with its iconic dome and enviable location near Mumbai Airport, was among the city’s proudest hospitality offerings. A favorite of many visiting the city for business or leisure, it carried a promise of elegance, comfort, and good food. That star, sadly, has faded. My recent experience at the hotel made me wonder if it should be renamed Sahara Scars.

The first impression was nothing short of a red flag. The hotel’s entrance, once grand, now stands neglected, crying out for a fresh coat of paint. Inside, the disinterest continues. The front lobby staff, far from welcoming, seemed more engaged in banter with each other than with guests. Not a smile. Not a nod. Just indifference.

My ordeal began even before I entered my room. We requested an early check in, and were promptly asked to pay five thousand rupees. That is standard practice, I understand. But when we offered to pay by card, the staff insisted on cash, warning us that card payments would include extra taxes. Begrudgingly, we paid in cash. Two hours later, when I asked for a receipt, they finally handed one over — with no tax breakup. That is not just shady. That is unacceptable.

Once inside the room, I hoped things would improve. They did not. Barely warm water in the bathroom. Only one side table with the bed — the other side left inconveniently bare. The socket near the bed did not work, so charging a phone required acrobatics. The AC mysteriously shut down early morning. Curtains too narrow to actually block sunlight. The carpeted hallway leading to the room was a story in itself — worn out, dirty, and faintly smelling of mildew. If this is luxury, I would rather downgrade.

With the General Manager being an ex chef, I thought the food might be the hotel’s saving grace. It was not. We ordered pav bhaji to the room — a dish so bad it does not deserve a second mention. Breakfast next morning was an exercise in frustration. A simple request for scrambled eggs was repeatedly messed up. When they finally served something, it looked like a single egg beaten with air. Toast? Forgotten. Repeated requests for uttapam led nowhere — until I walked to the counter and discovered the kitchen had marked it as served even though it never reached my table.

The final straw came when I requested a pyaaz aloo parantha — my last hope to salvage the morning. Ten minutes passed, nothing came. I walked back, only to find the breakfast counter shut. Timing over. I called the restaurant manager, Abhijeet (if I remember right), who had earlier taken my order. He apologised sincerely, and even promised to send food to my room.

To their credit, the parantha did eventually arrive — but an hour later. By then, I was leaving the room, so I politely declined.

I made several attempts to reach the General Manager, Salil Fadnis. I was told he was not available. No one would share his number. I left him a message on Facebook. No reply. At this point, my patience had run out. And hence this column.

To clarify, Sahara Star is still being run by the Sahara family, though they are reportedly facing significant financial strain, including delays in lease payments to the Airport Authority of India. One of the staff members I spoke to even admitted that employees have been receiving their salaries after considerable delays. That perhaps explains the lack of morale, but cannot justify the complete breakdown of hospitality standards.

Sahara Star, once the crown jewel of airport hotels in Mumbai, is now an ill managed relic of its former self. A star that once shone bright now flickers feebly — a victim of neglect, financial stress, and managerial apathy.

One can only hope that a revival is still possible. Until then, I for one am steering clear of this property. And if you value your time, money and sanity, perhaps you should too.

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